Master the mountains

Cocooned by the Central Eastern Alps, Austria’s western region, Tirol, has attracted experienced skiers for 130 years. Winter sports enthusiasts come for its steep slopes and tough runs – then linger to experience local hospitality, regional cuisine and other seasonal activities. So whether you want to achieve a personal best on a long run, follow in a World Cup skier’s tracks or complete your first black run, we’ll help you rise to the challenge as you go skiing in Tirol, Austria.

With 340km of pistes, there’s plenty of variety around the regional capital of Innsbruck. Accomplished skiers can attempt Axamer Lizum’s 40km of slopes, Nordkette’s 70 per cent incline and Kühtai-Hochoetz’s 60 per cent track – one of 85km of slopes. No wonder it’s a World Cup location. Don’t miss KPark, Kühtai’s freestyle and snowcross area, too.

Eight of Innsbruck’s ski regions also offer night skiing and tobogganing. For a break from the hills, try ice skating at Telfs or explore Innsbruck’s Old Town, home to a festive light show and seven Christmas markets. You can hop on a bus to marvel at Bergisel World Cup ski jump, too.

For free public transport, cable cars and experiences, collect a complimentary Welcome Card from your accommodation or invest in an Innsbruck Card or SKI plus CITY pass.

The SKI plus CITY pass also grants you access to the longest slope on Austria’s biggest glacier ski area. At 16.5km, it’s not for the faint hearted. If you’re craving an adrenaline kick you can also tackle Stubai Glacier’s 28km of black runs and steepest incline, Daunhill. Along with Schlick 2000, Serlesbahnen and Elferbahnen, the glacier is one of four ski regions in Stubai Valley near Innsbruck.

The 750-year-old town of Kitzbühel is best known for the legendary Hahnenkamm – a downhill race packed with blind drops, bold jumps and sharp twists. The 84th edition (15 to 21 January 2024) will no doubt inspire you to tackle the area’s 233km of downhill runs – 20km of which are black. With 18 to choose from, there’s no chance of getting bored, but you might go home feeling sore.

When your muscles need a rest, switch things up by exploring the area’s 77km of cross country skiing trails, or go winter hiking, tobogganing or ice skating. You can also unwind on horse-drawn carriages or at a traditional Christmas market. For a change of scene, try Bavarian curling in Kitzbühel or in the neighbouring villages of Reith, Aurach and Jochberg.

After a day’s activities, warm up over steaming Granglwasser (cranberry juice) at the traditional mountain hut Seidlalm in Kitzbühel, sample Kaspressknödel (cheesy dumplings) in s’Pfandl in Reith or eat apple strudel at the 300-year-old Bruggeralm hut in Jochberg.

Focus on your breathing to soothe your nerves ahead of your next challenge: Ischgl’s steepest slope. The feared 14a has a 70 per cent gradient, so it’s suited to experienced skiers. If you make it, you’ll drop 650m in altitude as you navigate from the area’s highest mountain, the 2,872m Greitspitze, to Höllkar.

Ischgl is one of the Alps’ best connected cross-border ski areas, as it links to Samnaun in Switzerland. With 239km of slopes, guaranteed snow from November to May and an extensive 6km freeride route from the Piz Val Gronda cable car to Fimbatal, Ischgl is a Mecca for adept skiers.

When you’re ready for another activity, there are 77km cross country trails, 60km winter hiking tracks, night tobogganing and snowshoeing routes. You can also curl or ice skate on a rink looping Silvretta Therme spa.

You can also attend four Top of the Mountain gigs, which kick off on 25 November 2023. After nightfall, dine at a Toque d’Or-awarded restaurant – with 10 to choose from, the area has one of the highest densities of such restaurants in the country – then unwind in a luxury hotel.

Whether you’re a freeriding novice or expert, Arlberg has a powder route to suit you. With more than 300km of runs, Arlberg is Austria’s largest contiguous ski area – and among the world’s five largest ski resorts. It consists of five villages: St. Anton, St. Christoph, Stuben, Lech and Zürs.

Hire a guide to stay safe and connect with locals. Depending on your experience, ability and the weather, they might suggest the legendary ski circuit known as the White Ring, which has linked the villages of Lech, Zürs, Zug and Oberlech for more than 60 years. St Anton is one of the world’s best places for off-piste adventures, so tackle Rendl and Schindlergrat, or traverse from the area’s highest mountain, the 2,811m Valluga, to Zürs.

If you want a day off from skiing, explore 70km cross country trails, 110km winter hiking trails or Arlberg’s via ferrata. Alternatively, time your trip to coincide with St. Anton’s White Rush race (20 April 2024), now in its 25th year.

Come the evening, work your way around Toque d’Or and Gault & Millau award-winning restaurants. Sample grilled dishes in Rud-Alpe, a converted barn in the gourmet village of Lech, or Tirolean specialities in Verwallstube in St Anton, one of Europe’s highest restaurants.

Embraced by 3,000m peaks, Gurgl in the Ötztal valley has spectacular panoramas any time of the day – but skiing beneath the stars or by the glow of the moon feels extra special. If you’ve never experienced it, now’s your chance – as the area operates two after-hours slopes.

If you’re an intermediate skier or in need of a confidence boost, zip down number six, a 8km blue run in Obergurgl. Once you’ve warmed up, get to grips with number 33, a red slope in Hochgurgl, which you can also toboggan down.

When you’re ready for another challenge, attempt Gurgl’s most demanding slopes; of 112km runs, 14km are black. You can also meditate while skiing alone at first light on First Line, with just the sound of your breath for company.

For a break from skiing, discover the region’s 10km of cross country ski trails and 12km of winter hiking trails. You may also want to time your trip for the Christmas market (to 22 December 2023). Sip punch and mulled wine as you listen to Huben Music Band, watch Christian Schmid carve ice sculptures and shop for regional Ötztal products, textiles and wood crafts at Forecourt Gurgl Carat in Obergurgl.

After dusk, dine at the cosy Hohe Mut Alm to admire a ring of 21 summits, or unwind in one of the resort’s premium ski-in, ski-out hotels.

We all want to maintain the slopes we love, which is why Tirol has implemented a series of sustainable initiatives.

Access most resorts by train or bus to reduce your carbon footprint even before you arrive, then explore on foot, bus or electric vehicle. An extensive bus network in Ischgl and e-vehicle charging stations and free public transport in Innsbruck and Lech make this easy – in fact, Lech has been traffic-free every winter since 1997.

Not to be outdone, Kitzbühel has also implemented a number of environmental measures, from e-filling stations in car parks to better insulation to reduce heat-loss at mountain restaurants such as Pengelstein and Horn Gipfelhaus and the Wagstättalm mountain and valley stations. A global positioning system (GPS) meanwhile has made snow management more efficient, as has new technology to improve the efficiency of snow-making machines.

Booking a climate-neutral hotel keeps carbon emissions low too. Familien-Landhotel Stern in Obsteig, near Innsbruck, has a coveted Austrian Ecolabel to highlight its green credentials – arrive by train for a five per cent discount and complimentary pick up, then rent a free electric car or mountain bike.

Choosing local, seasonal and organic produce helps as well, and Ischgl has gone the extra mile to invest in locally raised meat. Other measures include Ischgl using geothermal energy to heat Silvretta Therme and planting 35,000 Swiss pine and larch trees, and St Anton’s hydro power plant.

So perhaps it’s time to add a sixth challenge to your Tirolean bucket list. How sustainable can you make your next trip?

For more information about skiing in Tirol, Austria, visit www.austria.info/winter 

Main image credit: Skiing in Tirol, Austria – Skiers in Gurgl. Credit Ötztal Tourismus and Roman Huber